A: Both drop-in cooktops and slide-in cooktops can be used in an island, peninsula or a traditional setting. The main difference is that a drop-in cooktop will have the controls on the top while the slide-in will have them on the front. A slide-in cooktop will require special installation.
A: A BTU is the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water 1ËšF. BTUs are used as a measurement of the heating power of gas cooktops or ovens. To decide how much BTU capacity you’d like in your appliance, consider the following:
A: For cookware to work on an induction surface, it must be magnetic and have a completely flat bottom. In general, most stainless steel and cast iron cookware will work. Here’s a simple test: Try sticking a magnet to the bottom of your pan. If the magnet sticks, that cookware should work; if it doesn’t, most likely the cookware is not compatible with an induction cooktop surface.
A: Real Stainless Steel is true stainless steel that has been treated with a protective coating that reduces fingerprints and smudges, making it much easier to clean.
A: The light will stay on until the cooktop has cooled down.
A: Keep your burner components clean by using a mild nongranular cleaner, such as ammonia or a degreaser. This will ensure that the gas ports do not get blocked. When putting the parts back together, always make sure the burners and caps are level and firmly set in place.
A: Convection cooking is cooking with the added advantage of airflow circulation, which allows for a more even distribution of heat. By using the forced flow of hot air, convection cooking produces the following benefits:
A: Real Stainless Steel is true stainless steel that has been treated with a protective coating that reduces fingerprints and smudges, making it much easier to clean.
A: You can check the actual oven temperature with an oven thermometer, then compare that reading to the setting on the oven’s control. If there is a significant difference, some models will let you adjust the oven temperature. Instructions for doing this can be found in your owner’s manual, under “Adjusting Oven Temperature.”
A: Yes, this is normal. The fan stays on in order to help cool the oven.
A: These codes mean that the oven’s electronic control has detected a condition it needs to check. When you see a code, follow these steps:
If the code is still displayed after you’ve followed these steps, contact your local authorized service provider.
A: To self clean your oven, follow these simple steps:
Note: For safety reasons, the over door will remain locked until the oven cools down. When it is sufficiently cool, the door will automatically unlock.
A: To keep your oven racks gliding smoothly when you’re removing or inserting them, we recommend applying cooking oil along their outer edges.
A: A slide-in range is designed to slide in and fit flush with your countertop. This is ideal for an island peninsula, and can also be used in a regular setting to showcase a decorative backsplash. With a slide-in range, cooktop and oven controls are at the front of the appliance. A freestanding range is used in traditional installations (against the kitchen wall), and typically has a backsplash with a clock and controls that are on the front, the top, or the backsplash.
A: Both drop-in cooktops and slide-in cooktops can be used in an island, peninsula or a traditional setting. The main difference is that a drop-in cooktop will have the controls on the top while the slide-in will have them on the front. A slide-in cooktop will require special installation.
A: A BTU is the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water 1ËšF. BTUs are used as a measurement of the heating power of gas cooktops or ovens. To decide how much BTU capacity you’d like in your appliance, consider the following:
A: For cookware to work on an induction surface, it must be magnetic and have a completely flat bottom. In general, most stainless steel and cast iron cookware will work. Here’s a simple test: Try sticking a magnet to the bottom of your pan. If the magnet sticks, that cookware should work; if it doesn’t, most likely the cookware is not compatible with an induction cooktop surface.
A: Real Stainless Steel is true stainless steel that has been treated with a protective coating that reduces fingerprints and smudges, making it much easier to clean.
A: Each gas range has a shut-off valve, which supplies gas to the surface burners. To check that this valve is open and working, follow these steps:
When the tab on the valve is facing right, your range should work.
A: The light will stay on until the cooktop has cooled down.
A: To self-clean your oven, follow these simple steps:
Note: For safety reasons, the oven door will remain locked until the oven cools down. When it is sufficiently cool, the door will automatically unlock.
A: To close an open door when it’s in the locked position and the door is open, press and hold the oven door light switch while following these simple steps:
You should then be able to close the door.
A: If you have cast iron grates, follow these steps:
If you have porcelain-coated grates, simply place them in the dishwasher and coat any unfinished areas with a thin layer of cooking oil after washing.
A: Keep your burner components clean by using a mild non-granular cleaner, such as ammonia or a degreaser. This will ensure that the gas ports do not get blocked. When putting the parts back together, always make sure the burners and caps are level and firmly set in place.
A: We recommend Frigidaire Cerama Bryte cleaner, which is specialized for cooktops.
A: To keep your oven racks gliding smoothly when you’re removing or inserting them, we recommend applying cooking oil along their outer edges.
A: These are the differences:
In selecting the style for your refrigerator, you should also consider its depth and the degree of customization you would like:
A: The air filter eliminates odors for a fresher interior.
A: Real Stainless Steel is true stainless steel that has been treated with a protective coating that reduces fingerprints and smudges, making it much easier to clean.
A: There are two simple things to check first:
If you’ve checked both of these and ice still isn’t being produced, consider the following:
A: You can stop the ice maker from producing more ice by lifting the arm or pressing the off switch on the ice maker. Then do a quick visual check to be sure your ice bucket is directly under the ice maker, and that the ice maker’s arm is able to touch the ice in the bucket.
A: Moisture can develop when there’s high humidity, or if the refrigerator has been opened several times in a short period. The moisture should go away when conditions and use return to normal.
You should also check to be sure your refrigerator doors are closing completely. If the doors are open even slightly, warmer air from the room will enter the refrigerator and cause moisture to develop. The door should require a slight tug to open; if it doesn’t, check to see if any items on your refrigerator shelves might be preventing it from closing
A: Today’s refrigerators are designed to be more energy efficient than previous models. This means that they run longer cycles (or run continuously) to maintain an even temperature inside with a minimum number of start-ups, since starting a unit takes about 10 times as much energy as it does to keep it running.
A: These are early warnings built into the refrigerator’s electronics to notify you about a potential issue earlier than you would otherwise have known about it.:
A: When electric service returns after a power outage, the refrigerator will immediately start cooling and will automatically return to factory temperature settings. Its display will read “HI” until it has reached normal safe operating temperatures. Once the temperature is below 55°F, the exact temperature will be displayed. Please allow 24 hours for temperatures to stabilize.
A: You can find door adjustment instructions in your owner’s manual or in the product manual section of this website.
A: To keep the interior of your refrigerator fresh, follow these steps:
If your refrigerator model has an air filter, we recommend that you replace it every six months.
A: Products that are ENERGY STAR® qualified are equivalent to or better than standard products, with one important difference: they use less energy. To learn the ENERGY STAR® rating, products must meet strict energy efficiency criteria set by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the U.S. Department of Energy. Because they use less energy, these products save money on your electricity bill and help protect the environment by reducing harmful emissions from power plants. Plus, you get all of the features and quality you expect.
A: When shopping for an appliance, it’s easy to recognize the ENERGY STAR® label that identifies qualified products. This label means that the product passed stringent standards set by the U.S. Department of Energy. Additionally, manufacturers are required to display their products’ test results on the ENERGY STAR® label. The label will tell you about the product’s efficiency level, including approximately how much energy the appliance uses, its average annual operating cost, and how its energy use compares with that of similar products.
A: The options are:
The drying option may be changed at any time during the cycle.
A: Plastic dishwasher interiors are durable, quiet, and usually less expensive than stainless steel interiors. They are usually white, but many models offer a Granite Grey tone for a more premium look.
Stainless steel dishwasher interiors are long lasting, very durable, and stain resistant. They not only offer a premium appearance, but retain heat from the wash water to aid in the drying process.
A: There are two types of dishwasher controls, and the difference between them is primarily visual. A dishwasher with fully integrated controls has the control panel on the top of the door, where it will be hidden when the dishwasher is closed. Controls on the front of a dishwasher will be visible with the door closed.
A: Real Stainless Steel is true stainless steel that has been treated with a protective coating that reduces fingerprints and smudges, making it much easier to clean.
A: For the best drying results:
Some dishwater models offer a “sanitize rinse” option, which will deliver higher heat for maximum drying and NSF certification that ensures a 99.99% reduction of bacteria.
A: It’s normal to see a thin layer of water in your dishwasher after a wash cycle is done. If you’re seeing more water than that:
A: “HO” or “Hd” means the dishwasher’s cycle time is being extended while it is heating water. At certain points in the wash cycle, the dishwasher uses hotter water to ensure a clean load of dishes. If it detects that the water is not hot enough, it will heat it.
If you’re seeing “HO” or “Hd” frequently, check the temperature of the water available to your dishwasher. It’s best to do this at the sink closest to it, allowing the hot water to run until it reaches its maximum temperature before you test it with a thermometer. For best results, water should be not less than 120°F.
A: The amount of detergent you need to use depends on whether you have hard water. To determine the proper amount, consult your owner’s guide, which lists the correct amount of detergent for degree of water hardness. To determine your water hardness, contact your water supplier or have it tested by an outside source (such as a company that sells water treatment equipment).
For best results, follow these tips for detergent use:
A: When shopping for an appliance, it’s easy to recognize the ENERGY STAR® label that identifies qualified products. This label means that the product passed stringent standards set by the U.S. Department of Energy. Additionally, manufacturers are required to display their products’ test results on the ENERGY STAR® label. The label will tell you about the product’s efficiency level, including approximately how much energy the appliance uses, its average annual operating cost, and how its energy use compares with that of similar products.
A: When shopping for an appliance, it’s easy to recognize the ENERGY STAR® label that identifies qualified products. This label means that the product passed stringent standards set by the U.S. Department of Energy. Additionally, manufacturers are required to display their products’ test results on the ENERGY STAR® label. The label will tell you about the product’s efficiency level, including approximately how much energy the appliance uses, its average annual operating cost, and how its energy use compares with that of similar products.
A: Newer freezer models have greater storage capacity and a broader temperature range, both of which require a high-speed compressor. The compressor is what you hear when your freezer turns on, and it’s normal for the sound level to be higher than on older models.
A: On some freezer models, you might hear an alarm or a “buzzer sound” if the freezer’s temperature rises above 20ËšF. If you do hear it, simply turn the Temp-Alarm off until the temperature is again below 20ËšF. It’s also a good idea to check that your freezer is level, and that its door closes freely and with a proper seal. Once you close your freezer door, leave it closed so the freezer temperature can decrease.
A: If your freezer is not running, it might be due to one of the following reasons:
A: Follow these steps:
Please note that it’s normal for your freezer to run more frequently if:
A: If your freezer won’t close, it might be because the lid does not tightly fit the shape of the unit. The lid is designed to be flexible, allowing it to conform to the unit. If you notice that the lid is wrapping at one corner and/or not forming a tight fit, simply raise it and allow it to close sharply—this will help reestablish a tight fit.
A: If you see ice or frost inside your freezer, it could be because the door or lid has been opened frequently or for too long, or because the freezer needs to be defrosted. Note: In hot and humid weather, it is normal for frost to build up more quickly. Frost-free freezers should not build up ice, it should melt ice into the drop pan to warm and evaporate the frost away.
A: Check to see if the bulb is burned out, and if it is, replace it with an appliance bulb of the same wattage. If the bulb isn’t burned out but the light is still off, there might not be electricity running to the freezer. If this is the case, the safety signal light outside the freezer will also be off.
A: Yes, this is normal. These sounds can be caused by the freezer’s metal parts as they expand and contract with temperature changes, or by the circulation of the refrigerant that’s used to cool the freezer. The sounds will level off or disappear entirely as your freezer continues to run.
A:If the freezer temperature is colder than you’d like, turn the control knob to a lower number and allow 24 hours for the temperature to stabilize.
A: If the freezer temperature is warmer than you’d like, turn the control knob to a higher number and allow 24 hours for the temperature to stabilize.
A: If your freezer is vibrating or rattling, check the below:
A: Products that are ENERGY STAR® qualified are equivalent to or better than standard products, with one important difference: they use less energy. To learn the ENERGY STAR® rating, products must meet strict energy efficiency criteria set by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the U.S. Department of Energy. Because they use less energy, these products save money on your electricity bill and help protect the environment by reducing harmful emissions from power plants. Plus, you get all of the features and quality you expect.
A: When shopping for an appliance, it’s easy to recognize the ENERGY STAR® label that identifies qualified products. This label means that the product passed stringent standards set by the U.S. Department of Energy. Additionally, manufacturers are required to display their products’ test results on the ENERGY STAR® label. The label will tell you about the product’s efficiency level, including approximately how much energy the appliance uses, its average annual operating cost, and how its energy use compares with that of similar products.
A:If the door or lid of your freezer is open slightly, it can cause the cold air from inside to meet the warm, moist outside air. This can result in moisture being produced on the outside of the freezer. High humidity can also produce the same result.
A: Odors in your freezer can be caused by how food is stored. Some foods have a strong odor, so be sure to cover them tightly. Sometimes odors can also be caused by certain containers and wrapping materials (such as paper, foil, or plastic). If you think this might be the case, try using different containers or a different brand of wrapping material.
After you’ve checked how your food is stored, try cleaning the interior of your freezer with a sponge, warm water, and baking soda.
A: Your washer’s model and serial number can be found on the underside of the lid of most top load washers. They are located on the inside of the door of the Front Load washer. The top load washer has the serial plate on the underside of the lid. The front load washer has the serial plate located either on the inner door or the door well depending on the product. It’s always a good idea to record these numbers and the date of purchase, as well as to save your receipt.
A: Front load washers offer several benefits, including:
A: Products that are ENERGY STAR® qualified are equivalent to or better than standard products, with one important difference: they use less energy. To learn the ENERGY STAR® rating, products must meet strict energy efficiency criteria set by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the U.S. Department of Energy. Because they use less energy, these products save money on your electricity bill and help protect the environment by reducing harmful emissions from power plants. Plus, you get all of the features and quality you expect.
A: When shopping for an appliance, it’s easy to recognize the ENERGY STAR® label that identifies qualified products. This label means that the product passed stringent standards set by the U.S. Department of Energy. Additionally, manufacturers are required to display their products’ test results on the ENERGY STAR® label. The label will tell you about the product’s efficiency level, including approximately how much energy the appliance uses, its average annual operating cost, and how its energy use compares with that of similar products.
A: If your washer does not start, it might be due to one of the following reasons:
A: If water is flowing into your washer slowly or isn’t flowing in at all, you might find a solution by checking the following:
A: If water is flowing into your washer, but the tub or drum does not fill, it might be due to one of the below reasons:
A: If water is leaking out of your washer, check the below:
A: If the temperature for your wash and rinse cycles is not what you selected, check the temperature control knob. If it’s between settings, turn it until the indicator clicks into position for your desired water temperature.
You can also check to see if your hot water and cold water hoses are reversed. Run water from each faucet to check if the hoses are connected to the right supply faucets. The hot water hose should be connected to the hot faucet and to the water valve connection markedH on the washer. The other hose should be connected to the cold faucet and the water valve connection marked C on the washer.
A: To increase the water temperature for your washer, look into the following:
A:For a top load washer, you can increase the water level by turning the Water Level/Load Size control to RESET and then selecting a higher level or load size.
A Front Load washer will automatically determine the proper water level for each load—you don’t have to do anything. Because of the water efficiency of this type of washer, its water level will never be above the bottom of the door.
A: If your washer isn’t spinning, check to be sure the lid or door is securely closed. For your safety, the washer will not spin if it’s open.
On a Front Load washer, you can also check to see whether the dispenser drawer is open—it should be completely closed.
Finally, if your load is out of balance, this might also prevent the washer from spinning. Rearrange it to allow for proper spinning, possibly adding one or two similar items to help balance a small load.
A:If you washer is draining water slowly, check the following:
A: A number of things can increase the amount of suds produced when you wash a load of laundry, including:
You can remove excess suds by stopping the washer and advancing the cycle selector to Final Spin. Rewash the load in cold water without detergent and repeat, if necessary, until the final rinse water is clear.
A: It’s normal for a heavy wash load to sometimes produce a thumping sound at the beginning of the spin cycle. If the sound does not stop, the load is likely out of balance. Simply stop the washer and rearrange the items.
Rattling or clanking sounds can be caused by belt buckles or other metal fasteners in the load. You can fasten these items and turn garments inside out to reduce the sound. Rattling or clanking might also be caused by foreign objects (such as coins or safety pins) in the tub or drum. Stop the washer and check for objects in the tub or drum. If none are present and the sound continues, an object may be in the pump and you should call for authorized service.
A: If your washer is vibrating, it might be due to one of the reasons below:
A: For your safety, the lid of a top load washer cannot be opened during the spin cycle. To open it, simply stop the washer and wait 1 to 3 minutes for the safety lock to open.
On a front load washer, the door will be locked during the entire wash cycle. Before tumbling starts, you can stop the washer and then wait for the water to drain off the window before opening the door. To open the door during the spin cycle, stop the washer and wait 1 to 3 minutes for the lock to release—do not force the door open.
A: Clothes might seem too wet because they were rinsed in cold water. While a cold-water rinse saves energy and reduces wrinkling, it tends to leave clothes feeling wetter.
If your clothes seem wetter than they should be after the spin cycle, check the following:
A: Yes, it is normal for a small amount of water to remain in the dispenser drawer of a Front Load washer. If you like, you can simply remove the dispenser drawer and empty the water, but it isn’t necessary.
A:For optimal care of your washer, we recommend that you follow the below guidelines:
A: When choosing your preferred water temperature, consider these basic points:
To compensate for cooler wash water, it may be necessary to soak or prewash heavily soiled items, increase wash time, use a liquid detergent, or use additional laundry products to boost the detergent’s cleaning power. For detergent to be activated, and for powdered detergent to dissolve, the wash water temperature must be at least 65°F.
Tip: If you prefer cold water washing, it’s recommended that you occasionally run a hot or warm water wash, because repeated use of cold water and liquid detergents may produce an odor in the washer over time.
A: For best results when washing permanent press items, follow these steps:
A: Lint will occur naturally through abrasion, but you can reduce it by following these steps:
A: Abrasion will cause pilling on synthetic fabrics and loosely woven or knitted items.
To minimize pilling:
A: Detergent residue is a white substance that resembles lint and can leave streaks on garments. It can be caused by any of the below:
To remove detergent residue, rewash the items in the hottest water safe for the fabrics, using the recommended amount of detergent.
A: To avoid discoloration of fabrics, it helps to be aware of the following:
A: The dryer serial plate is located on the door of the dryer and can be seen when the door is opened. It’s always a good idea to record these numbers and the date of purchase, as well as to save your receipt.
A:If your dryer does not start, it might be due to one of the following reasons:
A: If your dryer isn’t operating, it might be because:
A: If your dryer seems to be taking too long to dry your load, check the following:
A: There are two house circuits or fuses in an electric dryer’s circuit. If one of these is tripped or blown, the drum may turn but the heater will not operate and you’ll need to reset the circuit breaker or replace the house fuse.
Additionally, you can check the following:
A: Yes, this is normal. At the beginning of an Auto Dry cycle, it might appear that the cycle selector knob is not advancing. However, as the cycle continues and the load dries, the knob will advance faster.
A: The rattling or clanking sound in your dryer might be caused by foreign objects in the drum (such as coins or safety pins). Stop the dryer and check for any objects.
These sounds can also be caused by belt buckles or other metal fasteners on items in the load. Fastening any buckles or similar items and turning garments inside out will help to reduce the sound and protect the dryer’s drum.
Finally, check that your dryer is in a level position and is sitting evenly on all sides—from front to back, and side to side.
A: For best results when drying permanent press items, follow these steps:
A: To prevent over-drying of clothes, simply be sure to select the appropriate cycle and temperature setting. Try using the Auto Dry cycle instead of a Timed Dry cycle, and follow care instructions on the fabric labels.
A: Sometimes fabric softener sheets added to the dryer can cause a greasy mark on fabrics. For best results, follow these suggestions when using fabric softener sheets:
To remove any fabric softener stains, rub them with bar soap and rewash them in warm water.
Address: 1123 East Pawnee St Wichita, Kansas 67211
Phone: 316-263-0005
Email: contact@appliancedoctor.info
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